Hats Off to the Library!

Tina Lernø, Librarian, Digital Content Team,
Central Library staff photo taken from Flower Street with a view of the East side of the Library, 1926
Central Library staff photo taken from Flower Street with a view of the East side of the Library, [1926]. Institutional Collection/Los Angeles Public Library

Do you own a hat? Other than a baseball cap? How would you feel about wearing a hat... every day? Well, if you were around in the 1920s, you would have been intimately familiar with hat-wearing, hat-caring, and hat etiquette!

While researching everything about L.A. 100 years ago, the thing that struck me over and over were the fashions and the hats! So many hats. Did people really wear hats every day? Or through the lens of time, and the camera lens, it just appeared that way. Let's find out.

Men With Hats

  • Outside
  • At sporting events (inside or out)
  • Riding public transportation
  • Inside public spaces such as post offices, airports, and hotel or office lobbies

Men Without Hats

  • Inside your home or someone else's home
  • While eating at home or in a restaurant
  • When greeting someone (apparently, this could just be a tip or nod without removal)
  • In a house of worship, (unless a hat or head covering is required)
  • At work indoors (unless required for the job)
  • Inside buildings such as a school, library, or courts of law
  • At a theater or movie house
  • During the national anthem is played
  • When the flag of the United States passes by, as in a parade

So, men were generally expected to wear hats outdoors, with a few exceptions. Clearly, hat-wearing in photographs was something of a gray area, as we'll see in the images from the time.

There were other rules, too, like the famous (or infamous) Straw Hat Rule. I couldn't believe it was real... but it absolutely was. "Straw Hat Day" usually took place in May or June, signaling the seasonal shift from felt to straw. Then, on September 15, it was back to felt.

This custom appears to have been encouraged—if not outright promoted—by the hat industry. Why not create a reason for everyone to buy a new hat? And if you were caught wearing a straw hat after September 15? You ran the risk of having it snatched off your head and smashed. How often that actually happened is debatable, but it did happen!

Men's hats came in a variety of styles. Straw hats included boaters, gamblers, and Panama styles. Felt hats were primarily fedoras, but the Homburg, derby, newsboy (or news cap), and even the top hat remained in play for very formal occasions.

Men and women followed different rules when it came to hats.

Women With (Fashion) Hats

  • In someone else's home*
  • At luncheons, weddings, and garden parties
  • In a house of worship (unless a hat or head covering is required)
  • At a theater or movie house
  • During the national anthem
  • When the flag of the United States passes by, as in a parade

Women Without Hats

  • Anytime it blocks someone's view, such as at a wedding or in a theater
  • Indoors at work

*Women left their hats on indoors because they were still considered "out" as in the public eye. Once 'safely' home, they could remove them.

And here, at least to this librarian, is the interesting part. As you can see from the photos below, many women are without hats! Almost all of the "librarians at work" photos show hatless women, going about their day. Were they considered rebels? Were the pictures taken in the middle of the workday, so even though they were outside, they didn't see a need to re-don their chapeaux?

When women did wear hats, the brimless cloche was especially popular. However, women enjoyed far more variety than men. Styles included wide-brimmed hats, bucket hats, berets, and turbans. Unlike men, I found no hard seasonal cutoff between straw and felt styles for women.

For formal dress, women typically did not wear full hats. Instead, they chose headpieces such as fascinators, crown-style adornments, or simply an elegant hairstyle.

Please enjoy these photos from our collection, along with advertisements courtesy of the Vogue archive, and the Los Angeles Times via Proquest Database. And check out Central 100, a year-long celebration that brings together residents from all corners of Los Angeles. With or without a hat!

six men in hats lined up in the Los Angeles police shadowbox
Police shadow box. The photo shows six asserted 'racketeers' lined up in the Los Angeles police 'shadowbox' today while detectives look them over in an effort to link them with six 'gang' murders. [July 1928]. Herald Examiner Collection
6 men without hats
Police shadow box. The photo shows six asserted 'racketeers' lined up in the Los Angeles police 'shadowbox' today while detectives look them over in an effort to link them with six 'gang' murders. [July 1928]. Herald Examiner Collection
2 ladies holding up a giant straw hat over the Mayor
Two women hold a giant candy straw hat above the head of Mayor George Cryer, [circa 1920s]. Eyre Powell Chamber of Commerce Collection
Several Chamber members. Among them is Frank Wiggins
Transfer of L.A. Chamber of Commerce cornerstone. Transferring the contents of the cornerstone of the old L.A. Chamber of Commerce Building to the new location at 1151 S. Broadway in 1925 are several Chamber members. Among them is Frank Wiggins, longtime secretary of the Chamber; Mr. Wiggins is the man with the walrus mustache, standing in the center next to the crates.[1926]. Security Pacific National Bank Collection
Poli Negri sitting in the middle of a group of construction workers
Poli Negri sitting in the middle of a group of construction workers, two of whom are holding hammers, while several are wearing construction gloves. The location is unknown, and no further information has been given. Photograph circa 1925. Security Pacific National Bank Collection
Ebell Club members, group photo
Ebell Club members, group photo, [1927]. Herald Examiner Collection
1926 Angeles Mesa branch Librarians
Vermont Square Branch Library Staff, [circa 1925]. Los Angeles Public Library Institutional Collection
branch librarians 1920s
Vermont Square Branch Library Staff, [circa 1925]. Los Angeles Public Library Institutional Collection
branch librarians 1920s
Vermont Square Branch Library Staff, [circa 1925]. Los Angeles Public Library Institutional Collection
staff members of Angeles Mesa Branch
Group photo, Angeles Mesa Branch Library, [circa 1929]. Security Pacific National Bank Collection
Patrons at the registration desk 1926
Patrons at the registration desk in the rotunda of Los Angeles Central Library being assisted by staff, [1926]. Security Pacific National Bank Collection
Receiving desk central library 1926
Receiving desk, Los Angeles Public Library, [1926]. Los Angeles Public Library Legacy Collection
Will Rogers and his family, 1926
Will Rogers becomes the first Honorary Mayor of Beverly Hills, [1926]. McAvoy-Torrence Historic Hollywood Collection
 Vogue; New York Vol. 68, Iss. 3,  (Aug 1, 1926)
Fashion advertisement: Newest Reboux Models. Vogue; New York Vol. 68, Iss. 3, (Aug 1, 1926): 36, 37.
6 vougue covers from 1926
Six covers of Vogue Magazine from 1926
Main ProQuest menu ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Los Angeles Times
ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Los Angeles Times: Men's fashion advertisments from 1926
Central Library staff in 1926
Central Library staff photo taken from Flower Street with a view of the East side of the Library, [1926]. Institutional Collection/Los Angeles Public Library

Reading Recommendations


Book cover of Hats : a history of fashion in headwear
Hats: A History of Fashion in Headwear
Amphlett, Hilda

Book cover of Women's hats of the twentieth century : for designers and collectors
Women's Hats of the Twentieth Century
Reilly, Maureen E. Lynn

Book cover of 1920s fashion : the definitive sourcebook
1920s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook
Fiell, Charlotte

Book cover of How to dress vintage : re-create the most iconic looks of the 20th century
How to Dress Vintage: Re-create the Most Iconic Looks of the 20th Century
Jones, Gabi

Book cover of The colour of clothes : fashion and dress in autochromes 1907-1930
The Colour of Clothes: Fashion and Dess in Autochromes 1907-1930
Blackman, Cally

Book cover of Vintage fashion : a complete sourcebook
Vintage Fashion: A Complete Sourcebook
Albrechtsen, Nicky

Book cover of The flapper queens : women cartoonists of the jazz age
The Flapper Queens: Women Cartoonists of the Jazz Age
Robbins, Trina

Book cover of Lost girls : the invention of the flapper
Lost Girls: The Invention of the Flapper
Simon, Linda

Book cover of Making vintage 1920s clothes for women
Making Vintage 1920s Clothes for Women
Rowland, Suzanne

Book cover of All dolled up : Bringing 1920s and 1930s Flair to Your Wardrobe
All Dolled Up: Bringing 1920s and 1930s Flair to Your Wardrobe
Langston-George, Rebecca


 

 

 

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